We have not had internet for four days, so are doing some catch-up today. The internet is very slow so pictures will come another day.
AGK’s uncle , Kumaran picked us up on Monday morning at 7 am. We had been up since 3 am since our bodies had not quite adjusted to India time. Kumaaran is very kind, generous, and patient. And lucky for us he is a very skilled driver.
The road from Chennai to Karaikal and then to Podanur is two lanes. The road is shared by trucks, buses, cars, auto rickshaws, motorcycles, ox drawn carts, pedestrians, and of course cows, goats and dogs (and occasionally chickens and pigs). The larger and faster the vehicle means all others yield to them and their warning honking. There is a lot of passing in the middle of the road along with constant honking to warn people that you are there and passing. It takes a lot of skill navigating through all this safely.
Muthu, the Director of the school in Karaikal joined us halfway through the day. We visited a government school and then went to Auroville. Auroville is a community that was formed in 1965. It has people living there from 43 countries. There are no nations and no religions. It is a community formed around hard work, helping others and peace. Yoga and meditation is an integral part of their life. They built a large circular dome to meditate in. There is no artificial light. There is a hole in the top which directs sunlight down to as crystal ball which then reflects off all the walls. They took what was a barren waste land and turned it into an oasis with a purpose. Instead of constant erosion, they have been able to contain monsoon floods and use the water in positive ways to help the entire region.
We also stopped at the Chidabaram temple complex of Nataraja which was erected around 1300. There are four main structures called gopurams honoring Shiva and depicting Hindu mythology. The temple complex is enormous with large areas for social gatherings so families and neighbors could sit and socialize after prayer. We walked down the main corridor to observe the fire ceremony where worshipers light goblets of fire while bells clang. There was another ritual where a statue was cleansed with young coconut milk which is clear liquid. The tops of coconuts are chopped off with a long curving knife in quick motions. It is a very holy place so everyone must enter with no shoes.
The next day, we visited the school in Karaikal. They just opened their new building. Before they were renting space at $2,400 per month. A rotary in West Virginia raised $40,000 for them to build the school on a piece of land next to the village where the children live. There are about 800 families living in the village. They live in huts with thatch roofs, dirt floors, no electricity, running water nor plumbing. A typical monthly salary is 3000 rupees which is about $65 US (48 rupees to $1 US dollar. Most of these families are rickshaw drivers, day laborers, fishermen. The work is very sporadic.
The staff at the school had to go door to door recruiting the children for the school even though it is free. The families did not see the value in going to school. After several visits to some families, staff simply showed up to escort the children to school.
Muthu was a lawyer who left his job to run the school. His wife, Uma, is an Ob-Gyn doctor at a government hospital. They contribute a lot of their income to keep the school running and send their own daughter there too. Uma’s dream to is set-up a health clinic next to the school so they can treat the families and children with good health care as well as education.
They had a big ceremony for us including singing, dancing, drumming, poetry and music. One of the dances the girls performed was done with a large, heavy brass pot on their head. What an amazing sense of balance. The older boys performed a dynamic dance while drumming with drums that are made of cattle hides. There is a string mechanism to adjust the tone of each drum. Other times they are glued and fired to get the proper tone. Each drummer uses drums that are in a range of tones.
The most noticeable thing about the school is how happy and excited the children are to be there and learn. You can feel all the energy and love they get at school.
The school uses the writings and beliefs of Thirukkural who wrote a treatise on Social Life which is considered the lighthouse guiding the ships of virtue, wealth and love. It is not based on any religion instead it uses a practical, analytical, scientific and worldly outlook to mould virtues of aesthetics, kindness, hospitality, sociability, service, etc centered on family life. They gave us a copy of the book translated to English with an inscription from Uma that says, “When love and skill work together, expect a miracle.” They are quite remarkable people.
Muthu and Uma graciously hosted us in their home for breakfast and lunch. Meals are served on plantain leaves and eaten with your hands. You use our fingers shaped in a scoop so it is similar to a spoon. What delicious food. Breakfast had rava upma (a soft rice mixture with nuts),idly ( rice that is steamed and baked in patties like little flying saucers), and dosas (similar to a crepe only crispier). All of these are dipped into coconut or cilantro chutney or sambar. On one edge was set a variety of fruits – grapes, plantains, pomegranate seeds (different, smaller yellow fruit with more translucent and sweeter seeds), and a fruit I forgot the name. Looks similar to a pear but is very different. Lunch was rice with seafood curries – fish and crab, chutneys and sambar. It was all so incredibly good.
That evening we went to the beach in Karaikal and walked around there. It is a very large beach where families gather, but swimming is not allowed. There are treacherous currents. Then we went to the temple that honors Saturn. It has a large tank outside which used to capture monsoon rains and worshippers would wash their legs before entering the temple. This temple was brightly colored. The temples are all remarkable in so many ways: architecture, artistry including intricate stone carvings, communal gathering spots, and sacred and holy places. The scope and size are massive especially considering when they were built over one thousand years ago. Sand and dirt ramps were built to reach the great heights and it took 25 years to complete one.
Thursday, October 29, 2009
Traveling to Podanur
By the time we post this, we will have reached the orphanage in Podanur driving west from Karaikal. On our way, we stopped at the World Heritage Brihadishwara Temple which was built in 1010 where Krishna is the most depicted deity. This temple has a tall 13 story tower or vimana. There is also an enormous bull carved from a sacred stone. This temple complex is built of red sandstone so it has a warm earthly glow in the morning and afternoon light. It is remarkably beautiful and peaceful. This temple had an elephant guardian protecting it.
We spent the night in Trichy, then visited the Rock Fort Temple and Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple. Both are incredible in their own way. The Rock Fort Temple is perched on a massive rocky outcrop that is 80 meters high and is visible from miles around. At the top there is a temple is dedicated to Ganesh (elephant God). There are 437 stone cut steps that you climb to reach the top. Ranganathaswamy Temple is a series of many temples that are 1,000 years old. There are 7 concentric walled sections and 21 gopurams. It is considered the largest temple complex in India. We climbed to a vantage point where you can see the gold domed sanctum and all the goparums.
Lastly we stopped at the Dam where the Cauvery river rejoins. It was built in 500 AD. There were many herons fishing here and fighting to keep their fishing territory to themselves. There is also a portion of the dam that is directed to a bathing tank. There were many families having fun playing in the tank. The kept motioning for us to join them. We did not go in, but we did take their pictures, showed them the photos, and shook many hands.
All of the people we have met have been very kind, patient and generous. We have truly enjoyed meeting people and hearing their stories. Everyone, but particularly the children and college students want to talk to us in English and shake our hands. They have huge smiles on their faces. A college girl gave me a flower today and another offered me her ice cream.
The poverty is hard to see, and progress is needed in some areas. Karaikal still has sewers that drain into open trenches in front of every house. Kitchen sink and bath water helps flush it away. Trash is everywhere too. People told us that the government trash service is ineffective and people trying to get food and what their family needs each day make it is a low priority. Cows, goats, and pigs seem to eliminate the food waste by eating it.
This school and area is a very worthwhile of a TSC trip with so much potential to change children’s lives. I feel confident that it is a well run school with both AGK and Kumaraan’s help on a regular basis too.
We spent the night in Trichy, then visited the Rock Fort Temple and Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple. Both are incredible in their own way. The Rock Fort Temple is perched on a massive rocky outcrop that is 80 meters high and is visible from miles around. At the top there is a temple is dedicated to Ganesh (elephant God). There are 437 stone cut steps that you climb to reach the top. Ranganathaswamy Temple is a series of many temples that are 1,000 years old. There are 7 concentric walled sections and 21 gopurams. It is considered the largest temple complex in India. We climbed to a vantage point where you can see the gold domed sanctum and all the goparums.
Lastly we stopped at the Dam where the Cauvery river rejoins. It was built in 500 AD. There were many herons fishing here and fighting to keep their fishing territory to themselves. There is also a portion of the dam that is directed to a bathing tank. There were many families having fun playing in the tank. The kept motioning for us to join them. We did not go in, but we did take their pictures, showed them the photos, and shook many hands.
All of the people we have met have been very kind, patient and generous. We have truly enjoyed meeting people and hearing their stories. Everyone, but particularly the children and college students want to talk to us in English and shake our hands. They have huge smiles on their faces. A college girl gave me a flower today and another offered me her ice cream.
The poverty is hard to see, and progress is needed in some areas. Karaikal still has sewers that drain into open trenches in front of every house. Kitchen sink and bath water helps flush it away. Trash is everywhere too. People told us that the government trash service is ineffective and people trying to get food and what their family needs each day make it is a low priority. Cows, goats, and pigs seem to eliminate the food waste by eating it.
This school and area is a very worthwhile of a TSC trip with so much potential to change children’s lives. I feel confident that it is a well run school with both AGK and Kumaraan’s help on a regular basis too.
More Observations of India
We find our senses are constantly filled with so many new and different things. We will describe just a few:
Rice paddies. They are the most beautiful spring green color. Kumaraan calls it the color of happiness which aptly describes the sunny feeling they have. The amount of labor is enormous producing rice. Flooding he fields. Hoeing the fields by hand. Building walls around it to keep them wet. Planting the seeds. Transplanting the seedlings further apart. Weeding. Raising morel fish in it (they aerate and stir up the soil which increases the yield and then can sell the fish too). Cutting it down when mature. Drying it out. Beating it to release the rice. Shaking it in baskets to remove the extra bits of plant further. Then left to dry on the hot pavement to dry further before sending it off to have the hull removed. The women work hard on the latter tasks. Their brightly colored sarees and the white herons are a sharp contrast to the vivid green paddies.
Motorcyles. This is often a family affair. Some women ride facing forward often with small children sandwiched between mom and dad. I saw a small infant sleeping one day wedged in between. Other woman ride side saddle some appearing to balance perfectly without holding on.
Coconuts. They have different coconuts. They are green and the coconut milk is clear and slightly sour. Many stands sell the coconut milk with a straw in it. Then cut it in half for you to eat the gel like substance in the middle. It is highly regarded for every day health and for sacred ceremonies at temples.
Cashew Trees and Plantains. From a distance they look like slender evergreens. But as you get closer you realize they are fine leaves. There are huge groves of them around. On the coast, they planted many of them as a source of protection from Tsumani’s. There are huge groves of plantains near the rice paddies. They too are flooded because it requires lots of water to grow the fruit.
Banyon Trees. What clever trees!! As soon as the limbs extend very far from the trunk and are too heavy to support themselves, the tree sends down roots from the branches and creates another trunk to support it naturally.
Auto Rickshaws. For the crew that went to Guatemala – also known as Tuk Tuk’s. I have seen a slightly larger version here that has two benches instead of one which means there are 6-8 people in one.
Rice paddies. They are the most beautiful spring green color. Kumaraan calls it the color of happiness which aptly describes the sunny feeling they have. The amount of labor is enormous producing rice. Flooding he fields. Hoeing the fields by hand. Building walls around it to keep them wet. Planting the seeds. Transplanting the seedlings further apart. Weeding. Raising morel fish in it (they aerate and stir up the soil which increases the yield and then can sell the fish too). Cutting it down when mature. Drying it out. Beating it to release the rice. Shaking it in baskets to remove the extra bits of plant further. Then left to dry on the hot pavement to dry further before sending it off to have the hull removed. The women work hard on the latter tasks. Their brightly colored sarees and the white herons are a sharp contrast to the vivid green paddies.
Motorcyles. This is often a family affair. Some women ride facing forward often with small children sandwiched between mom and dad. I saw a small infant sleeping one day wedged in between. Other woman ride side saddle some appearing to balance perfectly without holding on.
Coconuts. They have different coconuts. They are green and the coconut milk is clear and slightly sour. Many stands sell the coconut milk with a straw in it. Then cut it in half for you to eat the gel like substance in the middle. It is highly regarded for every day health and for sacred ceremonies at temples.
Cashew Trees and Plantains. From a distance they look like slender evergreens. But as you get closer you realize they are fine leaves. There are huge groves of them around. On the coast, they planted many of them as a source of protection from Tsumani’s. There are huge groves of plantains near the rice paddies. They too are flooded because it requires lots of water to grow the fruit.
Banyon Trees. What clever trees!! As soon as the limbs extend very far from the trunk and are too heavy to support themselves, the tree sends down roots from the branches and creates another trunk to support it naturally.
Auto Rickshaws. For the crew that went to Guatemala – also known as Tuk Tuk’s. I have seen a slightly larger version here that has two benches instead of one which means there are 6-8 people in one.
Sunday, October 25, 2009
Saturday, October 24, 2009
We Have Arived
It is 11:00 and we are just waking up. We finally made it to our hotel around 2:30 am last night. The trip here went smoothly. Lufthansa is definitely a great way to fly. Larry says it reminds him of air travel in the US 30 years ago. Great service, 2 hot meals. On our first flight, the attendants seemed to be having fun racing each other to see who could finish first. We met some great people - a woman from Hong Kong and a man who works for Microsoft and was flying to Bangalore for his wedding. And for anyone wanting to practice German you get a good chance on the flights. First flight -- 9-1/2 hours. Second flight 10 hours. We are happy to be ambulatory again!!!
When we arrived, you could feel the humidity and smell the scent of tropical flowers. We got through customs quickly which included a swine flu check. When you walk out of the airport, there is a sea of faces everywhere. I guess many of the international flights come in late at night. So many cars and people everywhere.
A driver from the hotel picked us up. Ganesh (named after elephant god) was very kind. Honking is done for a variety of reasons. It took me a minute to remember that they steer on right hand and drive on the left hand side of the road. His strategy was to drive down the middle as often as he could to avoid the wandering cows and dogs (who seem to have a built in sense of traffic but he said they sometimes sleep in the road). The shop keepers put out carrots, beets and other scraps that they feed on, and then the owners put out food and water to give them an incentive to come home and be milked in the morning.
We are staying at a hotel on the beach about one hour from Chennai. It is very beautiful. We bought some cowry shells that are intricately carved with a pin. Larry got a mother of pearl that is the most amazing shell he has ever seen. We bought them from Arul who was very proud of being in school. The teens would love the beach and waves.
We visited the temples at Mamallapuram this afternoon with a 17 year old boy, Mani, who explained the stone carvings and temples to us. Erin would love it. Huge boulder rocks everywhere. One called butter rock is huge and balanced sitting on one end looking like it will roll over any second. But of course has not for 1,400 years. All the temples are carved into solid granite leaving no room for mistakes. The temples which are scattered between the large granite boulders. There were many Indian families on holiday. Amongst all the people were dogs, monkey and goats. The goats nimbly scrambled up the sides of the big boulders. There was an adorable two day old goat. It kept trying to lay down and its mother kept nudging it to stand up. Mani is in school learning to be atone carver, one of a hundred stone carvers outside the temples.
When we arrived, you could feel the humidity and smell the scent of tropical flowers. We got through customs quickly which included a swine flu check. When you walk out of the airport, there is a sea of faces everywhere. I guess many of the international flights come in late at night. So many cars and people everywhere.
A driver from the hotel picked us up. Ganesh (named after elephant god) was very kind. Honking is done for a variety of reasons. It took me a minute to remember that they steer on right hand and drive on the left hand side of the road. His strategy was to drive down the middle as often as he could to avoid the wandering cows and dogs (who seem to have a built in sense of traffic but he said they sometimes sleep in the road). The shop keepers put out carrots, beets and other scraps that they feed on, and then the owners put out food and water to give them an incentive to come home and be milked in the morning.
We are staying at a hotel on the beach about one hour from Chennai. It is very beautiful. We bought some cowry shells that are intricately carved with a pin. Larry got a mother of pearl that is the most amazing shell he has ever seen. We bought them from Arul who was very proud of being in school. The teens would love the beach and waves.
We visited the temples at Mamallapuram this afternoon with a 17 year old boy, Mani, who explained the stone carvings and temples to us. Erin would love it. Huge boulder rocks everywhere. One called butter rock is huge and balanced sitting on one end looking like it will roll over any second. But of course has not for 1,400 years. All the temples are carved into solid granite leaving no room for mistakes. The temples which are scattered between the large granite boulders. There were many Indian families on holiday. Amongst all the people were dogs, monkey and goats. The goats nimbly scrambled up the sides of the big boulders. There was an adorable two day old goat. It kept trying to lay down and its mother kept nudging it to stand up. Mani is in school learning to be atone carver, one of a hundred stone carvers outside the temples.
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
Preparing for TSC Trip
We will be visiting a school and an orphanage for Technology Services Corps (TSC). A group of high school students will return next year to set-up computer labs at both of these locations. Links to the school and orphanage web sites are below:
http://ethicaleducation.org
http://www.familiesforchildren.ca/india.html
http://ethicaleducation.org
http://www.familiesforchildren.ca/india.html
Sunday, October 18, 2009
On Our Way Soon
We leave at 2:45 pm on October 23 and arrive in Chennai, India at 2:00 am on October 25th.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)